2.13.5a Serra do Gerês - Introdução
“Flowers of South-West Europe - a field guide” - de Oleg Polunin e B.E. Smythies
“Revisitas”
de regiões esquecidas no tempo - “Plant Hunting Regions” - a partir de
uma obra de grande valor para o especialista e amador de botânica como
da Natureza em geral.
Por
Horst Engels, Cecilia Sousa, Luísa Diniz, Nicole Engels, José Saraiva, Victor Rito
da
Associação “Trilhos d’Esplendor”
2.13 The Northern Serras of Portugal
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Moritz Willkomm (1852)[1]
Serra do Gerês[2]
Nevosa, o sítio mais alto (1.546m NN) da Serra do Gerês.[3]
Minas dos Carris - antigas minas de volfrâmio na Peneda-Gerês.[4]
2.13.5 Serra do Gerês
Map of the National Parc Peneda-Gerês (PNPG)
Polunin & Smythies (1973) descrevem a Serra do Gerês (pp. 106-109) da seguinte forma:
The Serra do Gerês is composed of granite mountains in the north-west of Portugal , and though not the highest in the country, they are in many ways the most spectacular. Seen from the Chaves-Braga road (N 103) they rise up boldly from deep gorges, the lower slopes largely forested with pines, the upper treeless with much bare granite. The Pousada de São Bento lies just off this road to the north, and is magnificently sited with enormous views across the reservoirs deep down in the valley, and to the ranges beyond, rising above the little spa of Caldas do Gerês. A number of forest roads, unmarked on the maps, radiating from the spa, make it possible to explore much of the area by car.
The Serra do Gerês is composed of granite mountains in the north-west of Portugal , and though not the highest in the country, they are in many ways the most spectacular. Seen from the Chaves-Braga road (N 103) they rise up boldly from deep gorges, the lower slopes largely forested with pines, the upper treeless with much bare granite. The Pousada de São Bento lies just off this road to the north, and is magnificently sited with enormous views across the reservoirs deep down in the valley, and to the ranges beyond, rising above the little spa of Caldas do Gerês. A number of forest roads, unmarked on the maps, radiating from the spa, make it possible to explore much of the area by car.
Vista para a Barragem da Caniçada, Serra do Gerês
Road-Map para a Pousada de São Bento
Caldas do Gerês e outros locais de interesse
A road with seventeen U-bends rises rapidly to Leonte, the watershed between the Gerês and Homem rivers, where *Narcissus triandrus is abundant in April. It then drops down through woods of Pyrenean oak, *Q. pyrenaica,
and birch to Albergaria and the Ponte de S. Miguel over the river
Homem. A side road leads off from the bridge up to a disused wolfram
mine, called Carris, to near the top of the Serra, Altar de Cabrões.
see the fascinating walk to: Altar de Cabrões, Carris
Though
not negotiable by car the whole way up, this is a lovely walk and takes
one up into a highland glen ablaze with colour, mainly of *Erica arborea, *E. australis, *E. umbellata,
Polygala microphylla L.
*Chamaespartium tridentatum, and *Halimium alyssoides. *Polygala microphylla, the best of the milkworts, is common here at the northernmost limit of its range, while Thymelaea broteriana†,
an attractive shrublet endemic to Portugal with numerous tiny yellow
flowers and contrasting bright green heather-like leaves, also grows
here. There is also some *Fritillaria lusitanica, *Tulipa australis, *Endymion hispanicus[5], *Narcissus bulbocodium, and the white daisy *Phalacrocarpum anomalum†[6].
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Rare and endangered plant species (†) - some of them endemic (E) to the Peninsula Ibérica
At the higher levels the Dog's Tooth violet, Erythronium dens-canis†, grows at the most western point of its range in Europe, and is in flower from March to April, with *Crocus carpetanus. The most interesting plant in this region is *Iris boissieri†,
which is endemic to these mountains. It can be found from 600 m
upwards, but seems to be rare at lower elevations and more abundant in
the neighbourhood of Carris at about 1450 m. It resembles *l. filifolia (from
Spain) with the same very long and narrow leaves and the same habit of
growing singly up through the scrub, but the flowers are somewhat
smaller and bluer, and the falls are bearded.
see the wonderful pictures in: 100 solas: Geira Romana - Mata de Albergaria
see also: Geira Romana XVIII (Download)
The road from Albergaria runs down the valley of the Homem, through lovely forests of Quercus robur, with an undergrowth of a mixture of Prunus lusitanica†, Ilex aquifolium, Acer pseudoplatanus, *Arbutus unedo, and *Amelanchier ovalis. Mossy banks dripping with water are colonized by *Saxifraga spathularis†, and the lovely blue-flowered *Omphalodes nitida†, and the early flowering *Anemone trifolia subsp. albida†. Saxifraga clusii[7] is less common, but it sometimes forms loose cushions 2m across , covered with a cloud of small white flowers. Lilium martagon† flowers here in July.
The return to Gerês is up to the belevedere of Junceda overlooking the Gerês gorge, and back down through the woods of Pinus pinaster, where *Simethis mattiazzii and *Lithospermum diffusum are to be found . At Gerês itself the most noticeable plant is the pink and white daisy *Erigeron karvinskianus, a native of Central America now widely naturalized in Europe, which has run wild on the walls. Anarrhinum bellidifolium and *Prunella grandiflora grow beside the road, and the autumn-flowering bulbs of this area are Crocus clusii and *Merendera montana.
The most conspicuous families of plants of this region are the Leguminosae, Cistaceae, and Ericaceae and they include a number of northwestern species:
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*Tuberaria globularifolia
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In October 1970 the Peneda-Gerês National Park was
established by decree as Portugal's contribution to the International
Conservation Year, and an office opened in Caldas do Gerês where a
brochure and map of the park can be obtained.[8] The construction of many
kilometres of forest road, marked on the National Park map but not as
yet on the usual motoring maps, has made it possible to explore much of
the area by car an area of 68,000 hectares of some of the most beautiful
country in Portugal, with magnificent displays of heather in June. One
of the most attractive plants of the granite areas of northern Portugal, the lemon-scented Thymus caespititius[9], forms low pink mats from early June here and there between the granite rocks.
(La
Serra do Gerés está formada por las montañas graníticas del noroeste de
Portugal, que, aunque no son las más alt as, son en muchos aspectos las
más espectaculares del país. Vistas desde la carretera de Chaves-Braga
(N 103) aparecen elevándose atrevidamente desde profundas gargantas, con
las lad eras inferiores cubiertas de bosque de pinos y las superiores
deforestadas y con mucho granito pelado. La Pousada de Sao Benito queda
justamente al norte de esta carretera; está magníficamente situada y
posee enormes vistas hacia los pantanos que quedan en el fondo del valle
y hacia las sierras lejan as que se levantan encima del balneario de
Caldas do Gerés. Numerosas carreteras forestales, que no figuran en los
mapas, irradian desde el balneario y posibilitan la exploración en coche
de gran parte de la región.
Una carretera con 17 curvas en U sube rápidamente a Leonte, la vertiente de aguas entre los ríos Gerés y Homem, donde *Narcissus triandrus abunda en abril. Luego baja a través de bosques de melojos, *Q. pyrenaica y
abedules, hasta Alberga ria y el Ponte de S. Miguel sobre el río Homem.
Una carretera lateral sube hasta un a mina abandonada de wolframio,
denominada Carris, cerca de la cumbre de la sierra, Altar de Cabroes.
Aunque no puede hacerse todo el camino en coche, res ulta un agradable
paseo que lleva a un estrecho valle llameante de colores, principalmente
de *Erica arborea, *E. australis, *E. umbellata, *Chamaespartium tridentatum y *Halimium alyssoides . *Polygala microphylla, la más espléndida del género, es abundante en esta su localidad más septentrional; también puede verse Thymelaea broteriana†,
atractivo arbustito endémico de Portugal con numerosas y diminutas
flores amarillas que contrastan con sus hojas coriáceas y de un verde
brillante. También hay *Fritillaria lusitanica, *Tulipa australis. *Endymion hispanicus†[10], *Narcissus bulbocodium y la margarita blanca *Phalacrocarpum anomalum†.
A más altos niveles crece Erythronium dens-canis†, en el límite occidental de su área europea, floreciendo desde marzo hasta abril, junto con *Crocus carpetanus. La planta más interesante de toda la región es *Iris boissieri†,
endemismo de estas montañas. Se puede encontrar por encima de los 600m,
pero parece que es rara en altitudes menores y abundante en los
alrededores de Carris, a unos 1450m. Recuerda a *lris filifolia, con
idénticas hojas estrechas y muy largas, y tiene semejante hábito pu es
se eleva sola por encima de los arbustos, pero las flores son algo menor
es y más azules y los pétalos más laciniados.
La carretera desde Albergaria desciende por el valle del Homem atravesando bellos bosques de Quercus robur, con un subvuelo en que se mezclan Prunus lusitanica†, llex aquifolium, Acer pseudoplatanus, *Arbutus unedo y * Amelanchier ovalis. Taludes musgosos que rezuman agua están colonizados por *Saxifraga spathularis†, la hermosa *Omphalodes nitida† de bellas flores azules, y *Anemone trifolia subsp. albida†, de floración temprana. Saxifraga clusii es menos común pero ocasionalmente forma pulvínulos flojos de 2 m de diámetro que se cubren de un a nube de flores blancas. Lilium martagon† florece aquí en julio.
La vuelta a Gerês se hace subiendo a Junceda por encima de la garganta de Gerês, y bajando através del bosque de Pinus pinaster en cuyo subvuelo hay *Simethis mattiazzii y *Lithospermum diffusum. En el mismo Gerês la planta más notoria es *Erigeron karvinskianus,
margarita de flores rosadas y blancas, originaria de América Central
pero muy naturalizada en Europa, que está asilvestrada en las paredes. Anarrhinum bellidifolium y *Prunella grandiflora crecen junto a la carretera.
Las bulbosas del territorio, que florecen en otoño, son Crocus clusii y *Merendera montana.
Las familias más vistosas que tienen representantes en esta región son las Leguminosae, Cistaceae y Ericaceae, que incluyen numerosas especies noroccidentales:
*Cytisus multiflorus
C. scoparius
*C. striatus
Genista micrantha
*G. florida
Ulex minor
*Daboecia cantabrica
Calluna vulgaris
Erica cinerea
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*Adenocarpus complicatus
*Cistus psilosepalus
Halimium umbellatum
*H. alyssoides
*Tuberaria guttata
*T. globularifolia
*E. ciliaris
E. tetralix
Vaccinium myrtillus
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En
octubre de 1970 se estableció el Parque Nacional de Peneda-Gerês como
contribución de Portugal al Año Internacional de Conservación, y se
abrió una oficina en Caldas do Gerês donde se pueden obtener un librito y
un mapa del parque. La construcción de muchos kilómetros de carreteras
forestales, señaladas en el mapa del parque pero no en los corrientes de
carreteras, hace posible el acceso en coche a gran parte del
territorio, un área de unas 68.000 hectáreas que comprende un a de las
más bellas regiones de Portugal, donde los brezales se exhiben magnifica
s en junio. Una de las plantas más atractivas de las áreas graníticas
del no rte de Portugal, Thymus caespititius, con olor a limón, forma un tom illa r baj o y rosa a primer os de junio, que se ve aquí y allá entre las rocas graníticas.)
Na Flora-on encontramos mais do que 430 espécies numa pesquisa de espécies de plantas vasculares sobre a Serra do Gerês:
Taxa correspondentes à pesquisa
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Acanthaceae
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Acanthus mollis
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Alismataceae
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Baldellia alpestris
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Amaranthaceae
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Chenopodium album
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Veja à seguir: 2.13.5b. Serra do Gerês - Geografia, Clima, Geologia, Geomorfologia e Solos
[1] Moritz Willkomm (1852): Die Strand- und Steppengebiete der iberischen Halbinsel und deren Vegetation. Leipzig 1852. (Download)
[2] (Foto de Wikipedia) - Serra do Gerês – Wikipédia, a enciclopédia livre
[3] (http://www.peakware.com/peaks.html?pk=2199)
- 'Nevosa' is the highest point on the Gerês Mountains on the north of
Portugal (Peneda-Gerês National Park). It's 1534 meters high and to get
there you have to make a 13 km track (3 hours). In general is easy to
get to Nevosa, but there are no signals to indicate the way. You have to
be very careful because the place is very sensitive. On the way from
the Portela do Homem you find a track along the Alto Homem valley. This
track was once a road used to get to the old Carris mining field, an
abandoned village at the top of the mountain. From Carris,
a unique place on the Peneda-Gerês National Park, you can see the
fantastic, wonderful and mystic landscapes of the Gerês mountains.
[5] Accepted name: Hyacinthoides hispanica (Mill.) Rothm.
[7] = Saxifraga lepismigena Planellas
[8] Segundo o ICNF o diploma de criação do Parque Nacional tem data de 8 de Maio de 1971 (Decreto n.º 187/71, de 8 de maio)
[9] L. Salgueiro, Os tomilhos de Portugal
[10] veja: O género Thymus na Flora Iberica e L. Salgueiro: Os tomilhos de Portugal
[11] Accepted name: Hyacinthoides hispanica (Mill.) Rothm.
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